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The Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, located about two hours south of Albuquerque, New Mexico, is a haven for migratory birds and those who travel to see them. You reach it by driving to Socorro, then another 11 miles to the small town of San Antonio, where an 8-mile loop road follows the Rio Grande and winds through the heart of the refuge.
"Bosque del Apache" translates to "Woods of the Apache." The word bosque, borrowed from Spanish, refers to the lush forest habitat flanking the river on both sides—a rich environment that draws more than 350 bird species each year.
But the real spectacle is in winter, when tens of thousands of Sandhill Cranes, Snow Geese, and Ross’s Geese arrive. These vast flocks are the stars of the refuge, and their synchronized movement is unforgettable.
Sandhill Cranes are tall, elegant birds with long necks and legs. They mate for life, typically raise one or two chicks, and migrate together. In the winter, they come from places like Canada, Montana, and Utah—bringing their young along to teach them the migratory route and begin passing down instinct and independence.
The best time to witness this migration is between November and late February, particularly at sunrise and sunset, when the birds roost on the water and take off or return in massive waves. It’s during these golden hours that the refuge becomes a stage—and the sky, a canvas.
We spent a couple of days at Bosque del Apache during one of those late fall seasons. A friend had told us, “Be there when the birds take off in the morning. You’ll know it’s time when one rises—and then the sky fills.” We hoped for that moment, the one where thousands take flight at once in a breathtaking burst.
It didn’t happen quite that way.
Instead of one unified takeoff, the birds lifted in smaller, staggered groups, peeling into the air as if by instinct, not drama. But it was no less remarkable.
Lining the road that morning were rows of serious photographers—big cameras, bigger lenses, and long tripods planted firmly in the dirt. Canon and Nikon gear, some worth thousands, pointed at the waking sky. Many wore camouflage. Some wore quiet focus.
“Photography is an austere and blazing poetry of the real.” – Ansel Adams
Mixed among them were first-timers and amateurs, some with point-and-shoots, others—like us—with iPhones and hope. We didn’t quite fit in with the high-end crowd, so we gravitated toward small clusters of fellow observers: people who were simply there to watch.
In a way, the photographers moved like the birds. One would shift position, and suddenly a half-dozen followed. A silent choreography of long lenses and padded gear.
We noticed something else, too. It was mostly men who handled the heavy-duty equipment. The women arrived later, often gathering in their own quiet clusters, content to observe.
That day, we were among the first to arrive—before sunrise, before the color hit the sky. And when the light broke, the scene unfolded: thousands of birds, rising mist, the murmurs of shutter clicks, and the quiet awe of strangers watching together.
In the end, it wasn’t just the birds that left a lasting impression. It was the people—the way we all gathered, waited, and watched. Different lenses, different perspectives—but united by the same wonder.
“A good snapshot keeps a moment from running away.” – Eudora Welty
The Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge is about two hours south of Albuquerque, New Mexico. You drive to Socorro and another 11 miles to San Antonio, where an 8-mile loop road follows the Rio Grande River and the refuge.
"Woods of the Apache" means "The Bosque Del Apache.” "Bosque" is a word borrowed from Spanish, meaning the forest or woods, referring to the habitat found on both sides of the Rio Grande River.
Over 350 bird species have been observed in the Bosque del Apache, where vast flocks of wintering cranes and geese are the refuge's most exciting feature.
The Sand Hill Cranes are large tall birds with long legs and necks. They pair up for life and usually have one or two chicks. These birds migrate from Canada, Montana, and Utah in the winter, and they will fly a chick South for the winter to teach them the way and encourage the offspring to be independent.
November to late February is the best time to see large numbers of birds in the Bosque del Apache when typically over 10,000 Sandhill Cranes and 20,000 Ross's and Snow Geese can be seen. Sunrise and sunset is the best time to see the bird while they roost in the refuge before leaving in the morning to feed or after returning from the fields in the evening.
We spent a couple of days at this refuge a few years ago in the late fall. We had been told by a friend to watch the birds in the morning after sitting overnight roosting on the water and waiting for when the first ones take off. When the rest then all at once follow the sky fills and that is the time for the best pictures.
We were excited and hoped to see them all get up into the air at once, but it turned out that the birds flew in several groups, not just one.
The road edge near the roosting birds was lined with people holding big cameras with huge, expensive, telescopic lenses. Plenty of tripods topped with Nikon and Canon cameras where the lens alone can cost between $2500 and $12,000, and even more line the nearby road with professional bird watchers. Some had camouflage pants and jackets.
Like birds, the people would move in groups up and down the road. One guy would break first from the group, and then it seemed like all the others would follow.
We did see some people, amateurs, and first-timers, just watching, like we were doing, so we found our way into their little groups. We folks with the smaller lens, and even just with iPhones, just didn't fit in, and some walked around alone to not be embarrassed.
It was mostly the men that had the "big" lens with extensions and tripods. It also seemed like the women appeared much later and stood in their groups.
We were one of the first on-site at "The Bosque Del Apache" that special fall day, arriving early morning before the sun rose. When the light broke, it was amazing to see how many birds were there.
The birds, the professional photographers, and all those watching were a treat.